Well, here we are once again. And once again, I have put off writing so my entry will be astronomically long. This will be the longest one yet! You see, I have to be in the perfect mood to write. I have to be alone, I have to be in the right mood, not be too tired, my creative juices need to be flowing. I don't want to give you an itinerary of what I do, I want to paint a vivid picture of my life here for you. And even if I don't capture everything, I have at least captured something, and something is usually good enough. But I can only do this when I'm in the mood, which is why my entries keep getting longer and longer. Please, enjoy, but only read if you so desire! Don't be bored with my rambling!
I want to start out with a cool fun fact that I learned upon my first hour in Spain that I have completely forgotten to relate until now. When I first met Eli, one of our API Resident Directors, she greeted me with a kiss on each cheek as is common with most Spaniards. She asked my name to clarify which students she was picking up and when she heard, “MacKenzie Tanguay,” her face lit up as she giddily exclaimed, “aaahhhhh so you're MacKenzie Tanguay!!” I wasn't sure about the overly excited response until she explained to me that immediately upon seeing my name on the roster, her and Pablo (our other resident director, who I will explain a bit more about later) were so excited because my apellido (surname, last name, etc) has a totally awesome meaning in Spanish. She explained to me that “tan” means “so,” which I knew, and “guay” means “cool,” which I also knew but was under the impression that that word isn't used in Spanish really. However, in Spain, it must be, because Eli then christened me “MacKenzie So Cool.” So there you go, Tanguays, our last name means So Cool in Spanish! I mean naturally, right? Tan guay! =)
I feel that I hit a little of the homesickness bug in the past week. This came on with the recent move in of all my Bellingham friends and the start up of WWU today, skyping with my Mom on Saturday, and just generally becoming aware that I have been here for 4 weeks (today!) and I still have a long time to go. However, all is well! What would an experience abroad be without a bit of homesickness, right? I have just been staying busy, doing homework (which there honestly isn't much of), writing, being with my friends, and chatting with my host family whenever I feel down. But things have been consistently busy (but at the same time not, it's interesting how this Spanish lifestyle is) so I have much to write about!
Last Wednesday we had our API excursion to the Alhambra, Granada's, and maybe even Spain's, most famous landmark. La Alhambra is an old Moorish palace no more than a 40 minute walk from my house (I can see it from my bedroom window if I lean out far enough!). I would love to tell more about the history, but although I participated in a guided tour with the rest of my program, it was in half Spanish and English, and I was much more interested in capturing it's beauty with my camera than in listening to it's history. Plus, I have my Spain guidebook, and I can always look in there if I really care that much about it. Basically, this building, or series of buildings, and the gardens surrounding it, are the most unique and among the most beautiful pieces of architecture I've ever seen. It was here that I really came to appreciate my Nikon, which I am so thankful I bought last summer. It really does capture images so much better than a typical digital. I could've been there for hours, I could've taken thousands more pictures of the exact same things just to find a more beautiful shot. And here, as I wandered through this ancient palace taking shot after shot, angle after angle, pondering about the history and the life that once inhabited the Alhambra years ago, is where I began to discover that maybe, just maybe, I don't know exactly what I want to do with my life. Up until I arrived here, I felt that everything had to be so structured, both because of my organized nature and because of the money sucking university world we live in that forces us to choose the career path we think we want at such a young age. I once thought I would just automatically be a teacher because it's typical and because I get summers off and because it's the best family oriented profession. But maybe, just maybe, what I want to do with my life is walk around places like the Alhambra and capture those images and then turn around and write about them. Maybe. Here in Spain my priorities have changed so much, I don't have a plan for anything but what I'm doing tonight and maybe some random specifics in the next month. But as for years? Who knows? I want to maybe join the Peace Corps, the FBI? Travel, speak Spanish, learn, research, write, LIVE the life that I have been so graciously granted. See what Spain is doing to me?
Well, that was certainly a tangent. Back to the Alhambra experience. At the conclusion of our tour, (which I loved because I got to spend time with the people in my program, most of whom I don't get to see on a daily basis. This is both a good and bad thing, because I don't want to be milling about with 20 Americans all the time, but at the same time they are great and I love seeing all of them!) it began to rain. And when I say rain, think Bellingham during February. Think Seattle. Think Arlington. Combined. And it was strange, because when we had finished our tour we sort of relaxed for about 20 minutes and watched the ominous rain clouds coming towards us, as if we couldn't recall that we had a 40 minute walk ahead of us. So finally we trekked home, and the good Western Washington citizen that I am, I of course had my black North Face rain jacket in my backpack, because someone had told me it might rain that day. So while everyone else got soaked to the skin in the tank tops and jeans, I was dry, except for my jeans, those were soaked just like everyone else's. And some people were complaining (granted, they didn't have a rain jacket) but I was just thinking, come on! It's rain, you won't melt! I was almost laughing at the absurdity of it, of the previous beauty and sunshine of the day that was so rudely interrupted by a torrential downpour. It was a beautiful taste of the Northwest, if you ask me. We finally made it home, and I was soaked but oh, so happy.
Transition: School is interesting here. Let me just tell you a little about a typical day in the life of MacKenzie. My alarm goes off Monday-Friday at 7:55 am (though I just switched it to 8 as I'm getting my routine down quicker). I usually curse the world for waking me, especially if we disco-ed it up the night before and I didn't get to bed till 4. I lumber out of bed, brush my teeth, wash my face, put my contacts in, attempt to do something constructive with my hair which is usually unsuccessful because straightening it takes too long and we can't take showers in the morning. I get dressed, make my bed (surprising I know!), eat my breakfast (2 slices of bread and margarine, and a small lemon muffin that I have eaten so often that I am immune to the lemon taste so it's ok) and leave my house at 8:30. Class is supposed to start at nine, but usually begins around 9:05 or 9:10, because hey, it's España! You just gotta roll with it. I am in the Intermediate B level, and I will move up to the Advanced A level in about a week and a half (next Friday). I have two teachers, Ana and Emelia. Ana is first, and I don't like her as much as Emelia. Professors here are much more animated than the majority of college professors in the states, its almost like they're acting because they're personalities are so vibrant and exaggerated. Ana has the most revealing facial expressions; when she is excited about something, you know, and you also know when she thinks you're an idiot. Every Monday she asks us what we did that weekend, and every day she asks us what we did last night. The majority of our class with Ana is talking, and we reviewed all the past tense verbs with her, watched a movie, did some brief cultural lessons, and we're now beginning to work on conditional verbs. We have a break from 10:50 or 11 to about 11:20, and then class with Amelia commences. Amelia is my favorite Spaniard, and one of my favorite people, in the world. She weighs no more than 80 pounds, dresses to the nines every day, has a short pixie gray haircut and is one of the most hysterical people I have ever met. Her favorite thing to say is “BIENNNNNNNNNN” and she says it to everyone, all the time, practically yells it and will drag it out for 10 seconds sometimes. She is much more encouraging than Ana, and seems more interested in our personal lives than Ana. I feel way more confident speaking in Emelia's class, and it goes by much faster and is really fun. With Emelia, we have learned Future tense verbs, when to use que (what), quien (who), and cual (what/which/who), and we're beginning with subjunctive with her.
Now when I saw school here is interesting, I am directly referring to one instance that occurred in Emelia's class about a week ago. I have no clue how we arrived on the subject, but all of a sudden Emelia was ferociously scribbling on the board and we were learning the difference between the words “joder” and “follar.” Now, excuse my French, family or anyone who is sensitive to swearing, but I have to describe this story completely accurately and I could not do so without being both explicit and vulgar in my language. Essentially, both of these words mean “to fuck.” Emilia explained to us that “joder” is mostly used to express happiness, worry, admiration, or hate, and when you say “jódete” you're saying “fuck you” in what Emilia dubbed a “lighthearted way.” She explained that an accurate usage of “joder” would be “Joder, what a cute dress you're wearing!” Interesante, no? And then she proceeded to explain that “follar” means the same thing but in a sexual context. She said that “Jódete” isn't really that offensive but wrote this on the board: “Que te folle un pez espada!” as an example of an offensive statement. I was slightly confused with the conjugation of the verb and the vocabulary, so I asked what it meant. My tiny, adorable teacher beams and in brilliantly accurate English, says, “Get fucked by a swordfish!” School here is interesting. Enough said! =)
Anyways, we finish school at 1 everyday, I walk home, eat lunch with Courtney and lately, my host family too, then take a 1-2 hour siesta, shower, and play with baby David. I am starting to like him more, except when his family is bugging him. The child clearly doesn't like to be held so I wish they would just leave him alone because he's such a happy baby when they're not touching him! Our host parents grow on us more and more every day. PePe talks about tapas more than anything else, and he's always suggesting tapas bars for us to go to. He continues to ask if we have found Spanish boyfriends, which Courtney sort of has one? Funny story. So I don't know if I have written about this before, but in the first week here, my friend Shannon invited us over to her house because there was a guapo boy repairing their shower. We talked to him, and chickened out in getting his number. Later, Shannon gave him her number, and he has without fail, called her every day since, and he lets the phone ring for approximately two seconds then hangs up. Shannon finally got to the phone recently, and Courtney talked to Tomas. He gets her number. They start texting, and we're sitting on the internet when Courtney hands me her phone. I read a text that one, was spelled terribly (in Spanish) and two, said, Oh, I don't have a girlfriend. Would you like to be my girlfriend? We laughed for 5 minutes without stopping. Is this kid for real? Courtney has talked to him once, three weeks ago probably and he's asking her to be his girlfriend! We showed Marí Carmen and she thought it was quite funny but said Courtney should probably be his friend before being his girlfriend. I love our host mom.
PePe talks slower for us, and I can usually always understand him. Marí Carmen, however, does not talk slow at all. In addition, she has the most significant Southern Spain accent of any Spaniard with whom I converse with on a regular basis. Andalucia is famous for their accent being completely impossible to understand, because it's like they don't finish their words, and they leave out letters in the middle. Most Spanish speaking people clearly say, “Hasta luego!” when they part. Marí Carmen always hollers, “Haaa lueo!” to us as we walk out the door. The first time we had dinner with them, she walked up to the table and said, “Quemapa?” My mind felt like a turtle, or like a blob of jam, as I'm thinking, “quemapa, quemapa, quemapa, WHAT IN THE WORLD DOES THAT MEAN!?” and then as she began to say it more, we realized she was saying, “Quieres más pan?” (Do you want more bread?) I mean, even if you don't speak Spanish, I am typing it exactly how it is supposed to be said, and exactly how she says it. Andalucians are so hard to understand!!
So our most favorite tapa restaurant is a Chinese bar called Feng Shui, I'm sure I've mentioned it prior to now. Tinto del Verano is 1.80 euros and 1.90 with a tapa of your choice, and the tapas are delicious. We go there at least 3 times a week and have since our first week in Granada. Part of the reason we go is because we enjoy the people who work there. Originally, there was Pink Polo (who always, every single day, wears a Pink Polo), Graphic Tee (who always, every single day, wears a graphic tee-though he wears different ones each day), and the Boss (who never does or says anything, and has gray hair and a red shirt and is always smoking a cigarette and leaning against the wall). They are all Chinese, and Pink Polo and Graphic Tee are very short (I once accidentally elbowed him in the head because he walked by me and I didn't know he was there and I was telling a story with my hands like I always do). We love how they say “tapaaa” in their Spanish language but Chinese accents, and we love how Pink Polo can divide our bill exactly just by looking at it and without using a calculator. Recently, we asked Pink Polo what his name is, and it's Linche. See, this is how we start to feel like we belong in Granada! Anyways, PePe and all of his tapa recommendations led us to tell him our most favorite tapa place. He always says, “no me gusta el chino, no me gusta el chino.” (I don't like....chinese?) And we always assumed he meant the food but then a few days ago he was telling us that at Chinese restaurants they cook actual people, and Marí Carmen said he's crazy and just laughed about it like she does with everything else. But then we started to think, well maybe PePe doesn't like actual Chinese people? So today, when he said that again, I asked him, in Spanish of course, “So, do you not like Chinese food, or Chinese people?” And.........PePe doesn't like Chinese people. Or Chinese food. Awkward! But it was just so humorous how he says it every single time we talk about going to Feng Shui!
Moving on. Last Friday, there was a party at a discoteca called Camporio, which is in the Sacromonte neighborhood (the old Moorish neighborhood) of Granada. The party was specifically geared towards international students, and we heard the disco was beautiful so we decided to go. It really was the coolest club I've ever been to. There are two floors, and outside steps between the two with an outdoor terrace. The terrace and the top floor both look across the river with an absolutely stunning view of the Alhambra at night. We walked across town and finally found the place, and the cover charge was 6 euros with a drink. This is the first time I've paid to get into a discoteca since being in Spain, Courtney and I (and by Courtney and I, I pretty much mean Courtney) usually work the people to let us in for free, or we go to specifically free events. There were a ton of people and the music was perfect, a good mix between Spanish pop and tons of American dance songs. We got our first drink and danced and danced and danced, and after awhile I wanted a second drink. I made the mistake of asking for a rum and coke and not asking how much it was. After it was already poured, the bartender told me it was 6 euros and kind of shrugged at me as my jaw dropped to the floor. 6 euros is like $8!! For a drink! I mean, I guess it was a learning experience, I won't be buying drinks at a discoteca anymore! But it was still really annoying and frustrating because what a waste of money. After that I was tired and my feet hurt but my friends were having a blast so I kinda chilled. At about 3 am, I was dancing with Courtney, and two of the people in our program, Megan and Tony. We were just doing our thing, moving to the music and laughing with each other, when this random guy reaches across Megan and shoves Tony. We all stopped dancing and just looked at the guy in utter confusion, as Tony did absolutely nothing to deserve this. Now, I have to explain that Tony is seriously one of the nicest people I have ever met. He is this great kid from Massachusetts and he is so genuine, and so friendly all the time. He is also very Italian, short, athletic, and very attractive. When the guy looked at him and tried to go towards him again, Megan stepped in front of the jerk to tell him to stop, I grabbed Tony's arm and pulled him to the other side of me, and Courtney stood between the two sides looking dumbfounded and completely confused at what was going on, as this whole situation was entirely unwarranted. Our efforts did nothing, as the guy swung past Megan, nearly hitting her in the face. I heard a glass break (which I later learned was Tony's that he threw to prepare to defend himself) and that's when I lost my protective instinct and decided it was probably best if I get outta there. I booked it through the people so I wasn't in the midst of the chaos and Courtney followed me. We turned as people were diving in to help and a Spanish guy asked us if we were okay and we were honestly so shocked we could hardly come up with the Spanish words to explain what the hell had just happened. The “almost fight” was broken up and we went back to Tony, who told us the guy punched him in the face but he didn't fight back. It was so bizarre! I have never experienced anything like it, because Tony wasn't doing anything, he was just with us having a good time! He decided to leave because he didn't want something worse to happen, and we were all kind of bummed out by the whole situation and so pissed at that jerk of a guy. So, honestly, Camporio, for me, wasn't the party it was supposed to be and was more of a lost night.
Saturday night, however, was amazing. API suggested that we go to a free concert outside of Granada, a fairly famous flamenco-chill singer Chambao. She has just recently recovered from cancer and this concert was sort of a break out concert after her sickness. I didn't really know anything about her but we spent like 5 or 6 hours at this place where there was a bunch of live music, food, and a flea market type thing where I got henna done on my foot. Her concert started around 11:45 or midnight (strange, I know) and went till about 2. I was exhausted but we were so close on the floor and it was a great concert! I love her music! I just couldn't believe it was free, it was such a steal, like a legit concert and everyone knew the words so I know she must be famous! It was nice to go out and do something here in Spain that didn't revolve around drinking, and overall it was just a really good night. I am hoping for more experiences like that in the near future!
I am going to finish with saying that tomorrow is kind of a big day, the remainder of the fall API group is arriving tomorrow. There are about 30 of them, and it's going to be pretty strange to have them around when our group has such a tight bond and we feel really established in Granada. Also, I am bummed because Pablo, our other resident director, got fired. For good reasoning, but I loved Pablo! He was my favorite resident director. The weekend we went on our San Jose Beach Trip, Pablo was supposed to come with us but he didn't show up because he was so hungover from the Zaidin Music Festival the night before. Pretty irresponsible. But I'm still so sad because he was so much fun. Now, Eli's sister is the new RD and I haven't met her yet but I probably will tomorrow or Friday.
Alright I'm done! Sorry this has been so long, I will try to write more frequently in the future so that reading my blog isn't such a task. But again, I probably will continue to do this because I only have the time and energy to write once in awhile. Miss you all and love you more! MacKenzie
